Beyond the Highway

Dining Through Western Manitoba

You learn a lot about a region from the seat of a motorcycle. The smell of rain on the wind, the way small towns gather to support their communities, and which roadside stops you can’t ride past without visiting.

Years ago, while running a Manitoba tourism program, western Manitoba became one of my favourite places to ride. Not because it tried to impress anyone but because it didn’t. The best experiences were usually the completely random ones. Like the glorious cinnamon buns savoured after a long ride or discovering an unexpectedly refined dining room in a town many travellers will, sadly, pass right by.

Riding Mountain National Park is well known for its lakes, trails and summer crowds, but the park has developed another identity alongside its outdoor recreation reputation — gathering spaces, destination dining and restaurants worth the time to travel to.

That is evident almost immediately in Onanole at the often-recommended Elkhorn Resort’s Buffalo Bar.

Elkhorn Resort sits beautifully between wilderness and comfort with the look of a place built for reflection: cabins tucked into the forest, gathering spaces created for meaningful yet casual conversations, and the quiet calm of a resort that is an extension of the park.

That sense of connection carries through to the dining experience. Executive chef Dan Hunter says many guests arrive expecting resort dining to feel formal but quickly discover a more approachable philosophy.

“We focus on simple, well-executed food that highlights quality ingredients and the unique setting we’re fortunate to work in,” he explains. “Being in Riding Mountain National Park allows us to create an experience that feels connected to the landscape rather than separate from it.”

The park itself sets the tone for everything from the atmosphere to the menu.

“The scenery, wildlife and pace of life in the park create a dining experience that feels different from what guests might find in a city restaurant,” Hunter says.

After a day spent hiking, biking, paddling or exploring, guests tend to come back looking for something satisfying, not complicated.

“Whether it’s a great steak, fresh fish or a seasonal feature, the common theme is that people want something memorable without it feeling overly complicated,” he says.

“If guests leave feeling connected to the place and the people they’re with, then we’ve done our job.”

Fine wines and signature cocktails complement the chef-driven menu, elevating the experience without sacrificing its relaxed character. Before turning in for the night, seek out the resort’s hidden speakeasy-style cocktail bar — an unexpectedly memorable way to cap off an evening in the park.

Peaceful places like Elkhorn stay with people longer than you think. It isn’t the coming or going. It’s the in-between, the sitting outside as the light changes through the trees, being aware of just how far you are from anything that feels urgent.

Just down the road, that setting shifts subtly.

As the sun sets, Wasagaming has a vibe all its own. The shoreline empties as the patios start to fill and hum with conversation. Riding Mountain’s energy becomes something a little more social and a little more exciting. It’s in this space that 1929 Dining & Lounge sits, not quite hidden but a part of the movement of the town.

1929 shows another side of park life. Where Elkhorn leans into quiet luxury retreat, 1929 is about into the casual upscale experience. Destination dining doesn’t need to feel removed from its surroundings. It can, and should, exist inside them.

Classic cocktails, fancy Caesars, cold beers and hot specialty drinks are sure to quench any thirst. The food at 1929 is perfectly matched to the scenery, with a wide variety of flavours from roast chicken to hangover soup and bison burgers.

Savour the late-night food selection while you test out your vocals during karaoke or settle in for the Saturday night live music sessions. Meals stretch longer than expected as conversations linger and no one appears to be in a rush for anything.

Finally, the park begins to disappear in your mirrors and as you leave Riding Mountain and return to the flattened landscape and long Prairie sightlines that we all know and love. The road into Brandon arrives gradually with the usual signs of industry, the neighbourhood edges and the steady rhythm of a busy city.

Brandon’s dining culture is a blend of function and refinement, not in competition with major urban centres. It has its own steady pace of local customers and confidence.

Albert’s Bistro fits into that rhythm, carrying the feeling of a place built with intention. Albert’s brings a taste of Greece to the Prairies and is just one of the many cultural culinary cuisines on the Brandon landscape. From moussaka and spanakopita to souvlaki and tzatziki, this is the finest Greek cuisine in Brandon.

Beyond the food, what else makes Albert’s a must stop? Fun. Rock climbing, electric ATVs, mini golf and, of course, a driving range. Come for the food; stay for the post-meal active outing.

For many travellers, Brandon often exists as part of the drive to or from Regina. However, there are a growing number of places making a strong case for staying longer.

Lady of the Lake is one of those places, and the name itself hints at its narrative. Less fantasy than lived experience, it draws its inspiration from the mythical Lady of the Lake — a figure associated with wisdom, influence and care in ancient storytelling. Owner Bridget Shaw describes it as “an atmosphere for women to gather with their families, to be nourished and to find beautiful things for themselves and their home.”

That sense of presence is intentionally shaped around use more than display. General manager Amanda Gray describes it less as a restaurant and more as a living social space.

“We are not only one of Brandon’s most popular lunch spots,” she explains, pointing to Friday evening live music, summer patio performances and a steady rotation of acoustic sets, British blues guitars, open mic nights and even the occasional drag performance. “You never know what you’re going to find on stage here on a Friday — we have a welcoming environment for everyone.”

That openness extends beyond the stage to include a curated shop. Both sides of the business are rooted in a simple idea: supporting local producers and creating something people return to, not just for food but for familiarity.

“There are many conversations that happen by meeting people you know here,” Gray adds. “It becomes a place where the community naturally overlaps.”

Even the food follows that same philosophy. Their Hungarian mushroom soup, rich with paprika and dill, has earned repeated recognition across Westman, winning local soup challenges multiple years in a row. Alongside it, Grandma Elva’s meatloaf-inspired Excaliburger reinforces familiar foundations, executed with care and quiet pride.

The food is made from scratch, the atmosphere is welcoming, and the result is a space that makes people want to stay awhile.

As evening settles, the city begins to soften its edges. Eventually, the road leads outward, back into the smaller communities where your next layer of discovery begins. Beyond Brandon, the two-lane blacktop becomes quiet once again as the towns arrive with less warning and leave with less ceremony. This is where Manitoba shifts into its subtler form within the smaller communities.

With more than a decade in business, Neepawa’s Brews Brothers Bistro is one of those places that is less known through promotion and more through repetition. Word of mouth, return visits and travellers who remember it long after the drive is over. Familiar but elevated and accessible with food choices broad enough to welcome everyone through the door.

When asked what has resonated most with guests over the years, owners Mark and Anastasia Mitchell point less toward trend and more toward authenticity.

“We just wanted to make food that we’d actually want to eat,” Anastasia explains about a philosophy that led them toward scratch cooking, global influences and an evolving menu shaped by curiosity as much as comfort. “We’re always trying new recipes, feeding our own obsession with cooking, and hoping what excites us in the kitchen translates to something our guests love on the plate.”

That balance between familiarity and surprise appears throughout the menu. Their Sweet Korean Heat Chicken Sandwich has developed a loyal following for its unexpected mix of sweet, spicy and Korean-inspired flavour in the middle of Prairie Manitoba. And then there is the cheesecake. House-made and constantly changing, it has become one of the restaurant’s defining features.

“We have people who come in specifically for a slice, not even for a meal,” sshe says. “That kind of loyalty tells you something.”

While travellers increasingly detour off Highway 16 specifically to visit, the owners remain clear about what matters most.

“Locals keep our lights on, 100 per cent,” Mark adds “We know our regulars by name and we know who’s celebrating what.”

That sense of community connection runs through both the dining room and the town itself with a place the Mitchells describe as warm, hardworking and worth slowing down long enough to notice.

TinHouse Designs & Coffee sits in Russell and blends modern café culture with something more interpretive: part gathering place, part creative space, part retail environment. It is less of a quick roadside stop and more a destination built around atmosphere, conversation and curiosity.

“When we started TinHouse Designs & Coffee Co. back in 2013, we wanted to combine both our worlds, Canadian-made products and a coffee shop/restaurant,” explainsTyler Kilkenny, who co-owns the business withTodd Sawyer. “We wanted to be an experience when you walked in the door … a bit of city vibe in small town Manitoba.”

It’s that balance of refinement and familiarity that makes the space feel distinctive without being pretentious. Surrounded by artful displays and locally rooted design, guests can go from handcrafted drinks to thin crust pizza and salads built with herbs grown on-site. There are shelves filled exclusively with Canadian-made products, all in artful displays.

The menu reflects the same intention, with ingredients and suppliers specifically chosen to support local and national makers wherever possible.

The owners say many travellers arrive expecting an average small-town coffee stop and leave surprised by something far more layered.

“Over the years, we constantly hear travellers saying they didn’t expect to find a gem like this in a small town — and that is exactly what we were going for!”

That reaction appears to have extended far beyond Russell itself.

“When you say where you’re from and the business you own, people will say ‘We stopped there’ and start telling us about their experience,” Sawyer explains. “That’s when we knew we were more than just a random coffee shop in some small town.”

In communities like Russell, spaces like TinHouse matter differently since they become the connectors between visitors and locals. Between the expectations people carry into small towns and the experiences that change those expectations.

In the context of this savoury journey, TinHouse makes a fitting final stop. Not because it is the most formal or the most refined but because it represents something increasingly present in rural Manitoba: Pride in where they are.

From here, the road stretches out once again. Long, quiet and open. The kind of road that leads more to quiet contemplation than a destination.

This is not a hard and fast regional route but just a tiny taste of what can be found in rural Manitoba. West, south, east or north, go find the smaller locales and savour the endless experiences.


Published in Savour Manitoba – Summer 2026 produced by The Free Press.